cold_static544
New member
hmmm, just a short question, where do i go if i wanna mod my guitar? like stripping the finish, refinishing, changing pots, bridge n stuff like that.
modding guitar
- Thread starter cold_static544
- Start date
jasonlefort
New member
u could try guitar connection...its in the basement of penninsula...near davis there...
MadWerewolfBoy
New member
changing electronics and parts are quite easy... hard part in modding guitar is cosmetics... refinnishing, drilling holes, filling holes, creating cavity, installing LEDs, installing disco lights, installing lightsabre, installing machine gun... those are hard... haha
i think for the harder parts GC is the place to go... but be prepared to pay a premium sum of $$$ for complicated cosmetic mods... haha unless u wanna try DIY
i think for the harder parts GC is the place to go... but be prepared to pay a premium sum of $$$ for complicated cosmetic mods... haha unless u wanna try DIY
cold_static544
New member
alrite, i intend to strip the finish of my guitar, and get a natural finish.
intend to change PUs,
and my bridge, intend to block the floyd.
btw, im still kinda new to all this, so might need some help.
intend to change PUs,
and my bridge, intend to block the floyd.
btw, im still kinda new to all this, so might need some help.
stripping itself would be quite easy provided you have the correct equipment and skills. All it requires is sanding. I wouldn't recommend chemicals coz they are extremely dangerous.
Hearing that you got a floyd I should guess it's somewhat a superstrat style guitar? An electric palm sander would be great for stripping off everything since the top is flat and not curved. Just go slow and not work in any area too long.
Note: Please do yourself and your guitar a favour by practising on scrap wood first.
Visit projectguitar.com for tutorials on using the palm sander.
Assuming it's a natural oil finish that wouldn't be too difficult. Danish oil works well but be aware of the different varieties containing linseed oil or tung oil or whatsoever. Just apply on a soft lint-free cloth and buff.
If you want to clear coat your guitar with lacquer you can try aerosal cans, and none in Singapore is of acceptable quality off the shelves. I've not tried this but I believe you can buy automative-grade lacquer from specialized car repair shops in sg. Those should harden fine. Do remember not to spray on a rainy day as due to humidity moisture will get trapped between the layers of coat and cause whitish hazing.
There is also a wipe-on poly by minwax found in Home-fix. Same application as danish oil. Obviously this won't be as good as a factory-finish. Then sand even working to at least grade 2000 sandpaper and buff with autoglym paint renovator followed by super resin polish. I've personally tested these 2 products on my PRS and they work fine. Just go light on the sanding and everything should be fine. (This applies to all lacquer spray-on finishes) It's too much to compile here.
Please visit www.reranch.com for the tutorial Guitar Refinishing 101.
Alternatively, you can invest in an air compressor + spray gun set for really professional results but you must have the prior skills first. This set up is costly and should run you in around/exceeding $500.
Does it sound like it's taking more trouble than necessary already? Keep the finish on seriously. It will save you some major headache and heartache should anything go wrong. Besides, your guitar will sound different with an oil finish. This may or may not be a good thing. I hope I've discouraged you enough :wink:
Blocking the floyd and changing pups are more conventional things ppl do on their guitars. Not that easy to go wrong with =)
Hearing that you got a floyd I should guess it's somewhat a superstrat style guitar? An electric palm sander would be great for stripping off everything since the top is flat and not curved. Just go slow and not work in any area too long.
Note: Please do yourself and your guitar a favour by practising on scrap wood first.
Visit projectguitar.com for tutorials on using the palm sander.
Assuming it's a natural oil finish that wouldn't be too difficult. Danish oil works well but be aware of the different varieties containing linseed oil or tung oil or whatsoever. Just apply on a soft lint-free cloth and buff.
If you want to clear coat your guitar with lacquer you can try aerosal cans, and none in Singapore is of acceptable quality off the shelves. I've not tried this but I believe you can buy automative-grade lacquer from specialized car repair shops in sg. Those should harden fine. Do remember not to spray on a rainy day as due to humidity moisture will get trapped between the layers of coat and cause whitish hazing.
There is also a wipe-on poly by minwax found in Home-fix. Same application as danish oil. Obviously this won't be as good as a factory-finish. Then sand even working to at least grade 2000 sandpaper and buff with autoglym paint renovator followed by super resin polish. I've personally tested these 2 products on my PRS and they work fine. Just go light on the sanding and everything should be fine. (This applies to all lacquer spray-on finishes) It's too much to compile here.
Please visit www.reranch.com for the tutorial Guitar Refinishing 101.
Alternatively, you can invest in an air compressor + spray gun set for really professional results but you must have the prior skills first. This set up is costly and should run you in around/exceeding $500.
Does it sound like it's taking more trouble than necessary already? Keep the finish on seriously. It will save you some major headache and heartache should anything go wrong. Besides, your guitar will sound different with an oil finish. This may or may not be a good thing. I hope I've discouraged you enough :wink:
Blocking the floyd and changing pups are more conventional things ppl do on their guitars. Not that easy to go wrong with =)
Whats your current guitar? If it a cheapo guiatr and what to experiment go ahead why not? But if its at least a medium range guitar $600 - $900 new. Might as well sell the guitar u have and get 1 closer to what u want. It might be cheaper actually.
U may want to consider the Ibanez sz320. This has a natural finish, hardtail, 25.1 scale, duncan designed pups which are not too bad. U can always change the pups later on if u want. Available at sweelee for 750+ after 20% discount. Lists for 900.
U may want to consider the Ibanez sz320. This has a natural finish, hardtail, 25.1 scale, duncan designed pups which are not too bad. U can always change the pups later on if u want. Available at sweelee for 750+ after 20% discount. Lists for 900.
LimpPisskit
New member
Wow almondx you should write a book! Good stuff.
I personally find the-lighter fluid-propane torch approach much more fun and less damaging to the soft skin on my hands :wink:
Block a Floyd, why not...cheaper than converting the bridge or getting new guitar. You also get to use the fine tuners that most non-floyd guitars don't have.
Cheapo method: stick a piece of wood (or any rigid object you like 9V batteries, 1-inch steel bolt nut, those silly McDonalds toys, etc) in between the trem block and the guitar body until nothing moves
Pro rich Tweaker method: buy tremno-ol-O or whatever you call it and pay some one $$$ to professional drill holes in yur guitar to install it
I personally find the-lighter fluid-propane torch approach much more fun and less damaging to the soft skin on my hands :wink:
Block a Floyd, why not...cheaper than converting the bridge or getting new guitar. You also get to use the fine tuners that most non-floyd guitars don't have.
Cheapo method: stick a piece of wood (or any rigid object you like 9V batteries, 1-inch steel bolt nut, those silly McDonalds toys, etc) in between the trem block and the guitar body until nothing moves
Pro rich Tweaker method: buy tremno-ol-O or whatever you call it and pay some one $$$ to professional drill holes in yur guitar to install it
LimpPisskit
New member
Gotoh made something like dat too. Trem Claw or something like that. I saw some Ibanez J-custom models that had them installed at the factory.
You can also tighten the spring claws and use strong springs to keep the tremolo block flushed to the body. Alternatively, like what others said, you can add a block of wood between the trem block and the body
http://www.guitarrepairshop.com/repairtremeloblock.html
http://www.guitarrepairshop.com/repairtremeloblock.html
fgl
New member
nope trem claw is difirent. This device takes the place of the centre spring
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailpieces/Electric_guitar_tremolo_parts/Tremconverter.html
here it is...
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailpieces/Electric_guitar_tremolo_parts/Tremconverter.html
here it is...
LimpPisskit said:
ah the heat gun treatment? :roll: haha very easy to get burn marks on the wood which would actually look GOOD if done artistically :lol:
yea as for writing a book. kiasu singaporeans like me just want to research all they can when it's concerning their first expensive guitar heh.
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